FAQs
[question]
How do you work up a load for a rifle?
[/question]
Personally I will look at published load data for my bullet/calibre/powder combination. Then I will go 10% under recommended maximum safe load. I will seat the bullet 10 thou of the lands as a starting point with all bullet types. Then I will work up my powder load in .3 grain increments until I get a good tight group with 5 shots NOT 3 shots. Once I have determined a nice group I will try a further .1 of a grain either way to see if it tightens up a little more. Then I will tune the seating depth keeping the best powder weight I have already determined. I adjust the seating depth of the bullet according to bullet type now. A VLD type bullet tip I will try against the lands and 10 thou in to the lands (jammed) a flat base or boat tail I will try touching the lands and I will also try 20 thou off the lands and 50 thou of the lands (jumping) I will further refine seating depth according to what my 5 shot groups tell me.
[question]
What reloading kit do I need to get started?
[/question]
I get asked by a lot of shooter’s who are new to reloading to which equipment they need to start with. I have come up with this selection of products that I think will cover all requirements for an entry level. The equipment has been picked because I think it represents value for money and performs a good basic starting point in to the world of reloading.
LEE Breech Lock Kit. This kit is a perfect basis for a no frills basis to start with.
MTM Case Tray. Extra case tray for ease of use.
Case Lube Kit. The perfect way to lubricate cases.
Digital Callipers. A good way to check OAL (Over All Length) of your case after bullet seating.
Lyman Manual. Whatever you buy get yourself a decent manual.
Kinetic Hammer. At some point you will make a mistake, I still make them after 25 years of reloading, this is a cheap and effective way to pull your bullets apart.
[question]
Can you tell me what powder will be ok for this calibre/bullet combination.
[/question]
I use almost exclusively this website (www.reloadersnest.com) for researching load data and bullet/powder combinations.
[question]
Is it cost effective?
[/question]
This is probably the hardest question I get asked frequently to answer. It depends on many factors such as calibre, grade of kit you buy, and the quantity you will be reloading on an annual basis. If you factor out the initial cost of buying the gear and treat it as a long term purchase and just work out costs on consumables you will be in the region of a 20% saving on commercially bought ammunition.
[question]
What press should I buy?
[/question]
This is again a hard one to deal with. My personal thoughts are that unless you will be reloading for high volume pistol or gallery type calibres I would recommend a single stage press. As far as I am concerned there are two main reasons why I think this way.
- As a new comer to reloading with a single stage press you can concentrate on one station at a time as compared to a progressive press which could have 4, 5 or 6 stations going on at the same time.
- Generally speaking single stage presses are built stronger and have less play in them. (less moving parts)
[question]
How do I determine what neck bushing size I want?
[/question]
There are two ways to work this little sum out : Firstly you measure the wall thickness of your neck (with a ball micrometer not calipers) and double it and then add the calibre size to that total then subtract .001″ – .003″ of the sum total to finish with the bushing size. Secondly you measure across the neck of a “LOADED ROUND” to get the sum total then subtract between .001″ – .003″ .001″ being the loosest and .003″ the tightest.